
This weekend MT had Saturday all day free, and we decided spontaneously to take a trip to Helsingør, just for the heck of it. We could have just as well gone to Hillerød, or Roskilde, or south to Møn, but we randomly picked Helsingør from the map, and so to Helsingør we went! From Østerport Station we each bought a 24-timers billet (a ticket that allows you to travel anywhere in the “hovedstad” region within 24 hours) and hopped on a train going directly to Helsingør. It was easier than I thought.
Inside and around Helsingør Station

During my past year living in Denmark I hardly left Copenhagen. I’ve traveled about 45 min. north to the Louisiana Museum a few times and 1.5 hours northwest to Frederiksværk to visit a friend, but that was it. I had no idea what the rest of Denmark looked like. Which is sad, considering that I’ve already lived here for a while now, and Denmark really isn’t that big. Before I visited, I didn’t know anything about Helsingør except that it is located on the northeastern tip of Denmark, on Sjælland (the island on which Copenhagen is also located), and is as close to Sweden as one can get on Danish soil. From Helsingør, one can get a perfectly clear view of the houses across the narrow Øresund strait in Helsingborg, Sweden. (I have a friend who lives in Helsingborg, who told me he can see everything going on in Denmark just as clearly from the window of his house.) The distance in between is only 4 km.
Therefore, it’s not difficult to imagine what a crucial military role Helsingør played back when Denmark and Sweden were still enemies. The Kronborg Castle in Helsingør, built in the 1420s by the Danish king, Eric of Pomerania, and now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, was a sea fortress that collected loads of money in tolls and controlled the entranceway to the Baltic Sea. It’s one of northern Europe’s most important Renaissance castles. However, Helsingør and Kronborg Castle is probably most known for being the setting of Shakespeare’s famous tragedy, Hamlet, in which Helsingør is written as “Elsinore.”

On our way to Kronborg Castle we came across several beautiful old houses and a church (the main church). Many were built in the 1500s and 1600s and have some sort of historical significance, although I didn’t realize it at the time. One house I randomly spotted and took a photo of simply because it had a swan on the facade turned out to be the old Swan Pharmacy (Svaneapoteket), which was built around the year 1500 on Strandgade 77 and served as the town’s pharmacy from 1578 all the way until 1970.
This particular orange house on the corner of Stengade had a plaque on it, which mentions that the house was home to author and publisher Christiern Pedersen, famous for being the first person to translate the Bible into Danish. From 1578 to 1619 this building housed the Øresund’s customs office.
Oxernes Gård, Stengade 66, built in 1460


MT and I spent almost all of Kronborg Castle’s open hours on its grounds (during the winter it’s open 11 am – 3 pm). There were free audio files available for downloading via bluetooth throughout the castle, and we listened to them on my cell phone as we explored the various rooms in the castle and looked at paintings and other artifacts. We also visited the chapel and Maritime Museum, and walked around enjoying the beautiful view of the sea. It was a typical winter day, cold and windy with just faint traces of sunlight.
Beautiful orange hues on the castle grounds

Tiny doors, tunnels, cannons

Indoors


The Maritime Museum in the castle was quite interesting. I learned that in 1639 some Danes were among the first Europeans to immigrate to the United States, where many settled in Wisconsin. And that the Bronx in New York was actually named after Jonas Bronck, an early immigrant to the region with Danish ties. There’s a lot of other pretty cool stuff to look at.
When we were done with Kronborg Castle, it was past 3 pm. We wandered off to look for some lunch and ended up having hot drinks and sandwiches in the cafe in the Helsingør Culture Center. The food was unexpectedly good and reasonably priced. There seemed to be nothing else to see, as most places looked closed. In fact, one of the first things we noticed about Helsingør upon exiting the train station, besides the really cool “local trains” (Lokalbanen) gliding through the streets, was that there’s not much business going on, and even the Tourist Information Center was closed, although I don’t understand why a tourist information center would only open Monday to Friday, when most potential tourists are at work, and not on weekends. After walking around a bit more in downtown Helsingør, we took the train back to home sweet home Copenhagen.
We had a nice time in Helsingør. Nowadays Helsingør is a quaint little town that’s much quieter than it was in its days of glory, but its historical and cultural significance makes it still well worth a visit.